In a meeting with Chinese museum consultants and scholars, Bolton presents his thesis: that Western designers (Galliano, Saint Laurent, Poiret) misappropriated Chinese iconography, yet in doing so, created a new artistic language. The Chinese delegates listen politely before one notes: “You are showing Western fantasies about China, but you have almost no contemporary Chinese designers in the main galleries.” Bolton’s response—that the exhibition is about the Western “look” of China, not China itself—is met with silence.
Conversely, Wintour operates with the efficiency of a political strategist. When Bolton hesitates over a seating chart—debating whether to place a tech CEO next to a Chinese minister—Wintour overrides him: “We need youth. We need noise. We need Instagram.” The film subtly critiques Wintour’s pragmatism while simultaneously acknowledging that her celebrity-driven machinery generates the $15 million necessary for Bolton’s intellectual project. The First Monday In May
Andrew Rossi’s 2016 documentary, The First Monday in May , provides an unprecedented behind-the-scenes look at the creation of the Metropolitan Museum of Art’s 2015 Costume Institute exhibition, China: Through the Looking Glass , and its accompanying gala. This paper argues that the film functions as a complex text on the tensions between high art and commercial fashion, Eastern and Western cultural authority, and the invisible labor that sustains the spectacle of the Met Gala. By analyzing the film’s depiction of curator Andrew Bolton’s academic rigor versus celebrity chairperson Anna Wintour’s branding machinery, this paper explores how the documentary both critiques and celebrates the economization of museum culture in the 21st century. 1. Introduction On the first Monday of May 2015, the Metropolitan Museum of Art’s Greek and Roman galleries were temporarily decontextualized. Hundreds of mannequins draped in Yves Saint Laurent, Guo Pei, and Alexander McQueen stood alongside ancient Chinese bronzes and classical marble statues. The occasion was China: Through the Looking Glass , the highest-attended fashion exhibition in the Met’s history. Andrew Rossi’s documentary, The First Monday in May , captures the eight-month struggle to mount this exhibition, framing it as a battleground for three distinct conflicts: art versus artifact, scholarship versus celebrity, and appropriation versus homage. In a meeting with Chinese museum consultants and
This paper posits that the film’s primary achievement is its refusal to resolve these tensions. Instead, Rossi presents the Met Gala—and the exhibition it funds—as a ritual of hierarchical reinforcement, where cultural capital (Bourdieu, 1979) is displayed, exchanged, and occasionally challenged. Through a close reading of key sequences, this analysis will demonstrate how the documentary exposes the structural paradoxes of major institutional curation. The documentary’s most explicit dramatic engine is the partnership between Andrew Bolton, the soft-spoken, Oxford-educated curator of the Costume Institute, and Anna Wintour, the monolithic editor-in-chief of Vogue and the gala’s long-time chairperson. Andrew Rossi’s 2016 documentary, The First Monday in
For scholars of museum studies, fashion theory, and cultural diplomacy, the film remains an essential primary text. It asks a question that it cannot answer: In an era of neoliberal arts funding, can major institutions produce intellectually honest exhibitions when their survival depends on the very celebrity-industrial complex they claim to merely observe?
The Spectacle of Hierarchy: Curatorial Authority, Cultural Diplomacy, and the Labor of Luxury in The First Monday in May