1.2 : What are the main assumptions made in water wave mechanics?
2.1 : Derive the Laplace equation for water waves.
3.1 : A wave with a wavelength of 100 m and a wave height of 2 m is traveling in water with a depth of 10 m. What is the wave speed? What is the wave speed
1.1 : What is the difference between a water wave and a tsunami?
Solution: Using the Sommerfeld-Malyuzhinets solution, we can calculate the diffraction coefficient: $K_d = \frac{1}{\sqrt{2 \pi}} \int_{-\infty}^{\infty} e^{i k r \cos{\theta}} d \theta$. Solution: A water wave is a surface wave
Solution: A water wave is a surface wave that travels through the ocean, caused by wind friction, while a tsunami is a series of ocean waves with extremely long wavelengths, caused by displacement of a large volume of water.
3.2 : A wave is incident on a beach with a slope of 1:10. What is the refraction coefficient? Solution: Using the run-up formula
Solution: Using the run-up formula, we can calculate the run-up height: $R = \frac{H}{\tan{\beta}} = \frac{2}{0.1} = 20$ m.
4.2 : A wave is diffracted around a semi-infinite breakwater. What is the diffraction coefficient?
4.1 : A wave with a wavelength of 50 m is incident on a vertical wall. What is the reflection coefficient?
